Hand cutting is definitely one of the delicate and crucial steps in the success of a garment.
The cutter from each piece makes a 50×50 square by assigning the same code to the piece and the square, since the return after washing has to be calculated for each piece, as they may not have all taken the same bath, so they may have slight differences
The squares are squeezed with the cut-and-sew machine, and the selvedge is marked, with small seams, so that the orientation of the warp is always clear. From the pattern-making machine, measurements of the square are taken for both warp and weft so that the difference and thus the returns can be seen after washin
Having drawn up the sheets with measurements filled in, the squares are taken to the wash.
The ones we use most are stone washes, which correspond to our used label. Sometimes other types of washing are required, such as for flocked fabrics a rinse wash is done, which is a very light water wash, because the fabric itself has a very delicate workmanship and an aggressive wash could compromise the fabric
When the pullers return from the laundry, the pattern-making department iron them and takes measurements in both length and width to calculate shrinkage rates.
With this data emerged, the pattern-making department can proceed with the computer graphics of the patterns and the design of their placement taking into account the indentations, sizes, fabric type and orientation.The placed patterns are printed by the plotter on a thermoadhesive paper, this is needed by the cutter so that the pattern stays still on the fabric and does not move during cutting.
The cutter spreads the fabric with the spreader, creating what is called a mattress in the jargon, that is, several layers of fabric to make equal pieces simultaneously, checking for defects and being careful about its orientation and the directions of the patternmaker.
After that, it is ironed over the heat-adhesive paper, and weights are placed on the patterns for added security of stability and adherence.
More attention should definitely be paid to the velvets with their pile direction. We proceed with manual cutting by means of a cutter; this is a work of utmost precision because manual cutting must perfectly follow the lines of the patterns, otherwise even a millimeter of error can compromise the result of the pants.
It is also important to take care to cut notches that the tailoring department needs to match the pant pieces at the correct distances.
Both the main fabric and linings are cut.
The shrewdness of applying the adhesive to the waistband is important; all of our jeans have double adhesive in the waistband for added strength.
All the cut pieces are taken to the tailoring department for assembly, after which the garment is measured by the pattern-making department and sent to the respective wash
When the garment returns from washing, it is ironed and accessorized and measured again to see if everything has returned correctly as expected.
Generally we do the garment wash, while the piece wash is done exclusively for digital printing, because before printing the fabric has to be specially processed and has a different process in cutting because no matting can be done, but cut each garment on its own since the printing may vary slightly for each garment.
This is what takes place in-house for the first few unlocked pieces; in general, all pieces are tested to guarantee a premium result.
Finally, in terms of production also more quality control is done after ironing.
